ML Hart's journal of observations, obsessions and inspirations
One day in Montevideo, my Spanish class ended two hours earlier than usual, at 3 pm. Generally, we just call for a taxi – that means I ask my teacher to call for a taxi, as talking on the phone is still beyond my skill level and ability to understand! – and several minutes later, …
Have you traveled to large cities before? I’ve been to New York and Chicago, London and Barcelona and Moscow. I’ve never felt in any danger there, but I’m a careful traveler. Smart at home, too, whatever city that might be. Before my first trip to Uruguay, I read dozens of articles. A lot of blog …
Accent One of the hardest adjustments, language-wise, has been hearing the Rioplatense accent. Making the connection between what I hear and what I was used to hearing, and figuring out what it means. Big disconnect. Yes, I know I’ll get there, but right now I’m not. There’s the accent. All “y” (except at the end …
Verduras y frutas at the feria What will $513 UY pesos* get you at the Atlántida feria? More than I could fit in the photo: *approximately $17.60 USD 2 manojos grandes de espinaca 1/2 kilo de fresas 4 manzanas 2 morrónes 2 dientes de ajo 2 lechugas 1 docena de huevos 2 pepinos, 4 naranjas 2 …
Everything is a little slower here, which is a welcome change. But it’s taking some getting used to. The picture shows a view of downtown Atlántida – the centro – in winter. It’s a tourist town that comes alive from mid-December to the end of February, and nearly all restaurants and many other businesses close …
Visited again today with the owners of the house I’m renting for the next year and a half. Here’s the avocado tree in the back yard, or part of the tree – it’s about 20 feet high. I met the owners last month, nice couple who have lived here for 7 or 8 years. Originally …
Vacation plans A week before a planned trip back to the US to tie up a couple of loose ends (because making a big move like this isn’t easy), I’d booked a mini-tour to Puerto Iguazú in the northern part of Argentina. At the junction of Brasil, Paraguay and Argentina, it’s home to the Cataratas …
Montevideo has an old world / European feel to it, which isn’t that much different from major cities elsewhere in South America. The city’s buildings are a mix of readily identifiable designs, spanning more than a century, with cultural influences here are about an even mix of Spanish and Italian, which is different. You see …
The farmers market Wednesday, so it’s feria day in the part of town where I’m staying. The farmers market takes over the streets, starting about half a block from the house and extending 3 city blocks, both sides of the street. Trucks and hand trolleys, crates and canopies. Setup is underway by 9 in the …
Fui a la librería. Large bookstore, two stories high on the peatonal, the no-car-zone in the heart of the old part of the city, la Ciudad Vieja. Gorgeous building on the outside, I’ve walked by it every day on my way to and from Spanish class. Huge front windows filled with treasures and I can see …
Today I got my first look at the beautiful beach – la playa hermosa de Atlántida – when I took a bus to visit the town where I’ll be living, starting mid-May. First I had to figure out how to get to the bus terminal in Montevideo. Then figure out how to purchase a ticket. …
With the help of mi profesor, Juan, I am learning Spanish. Estoy aprendiendo español. Here he is, patiently writing out my lessons at Spanish Uruguay School. The best part is the first half hour of our class meeting, where we just talk. Conversation. I get practice listening and trying to come up with the vocabulary …
Today I went to the farmacia all by myself to get sunscreen – crema protector solar. Asked for what I wanted, how much it cost, all that. Talking to BF on Skype afterwards, he asks, “You did that in Spanish??” Well, duh. What else? The farmacia is more like a “drugstore” in the US rather …
Still handling some loose ends from EE.UU. Estados Unidos. Yesterday had an email with an attachment that needed to be unzipped, printed, filled out and signed, then faxed back. You’d think the university system would have online forms, but noooo. After numerous discussions, Lillián (amazingly kind and wonderful madre de mi host familia) said there …
The prevailing attitude here is “Tranquilo!” I thought it would take me a while to let go of the amped-up SoCal state of mind, the always-on, always-responsible sensibility that had controlled my life for so long. But I’m shedding that much, much faster than expected. I’ve been here 3 days and it’s gorgeous. Already I’m …
My first view of Montevideo, really, was also my first day of Spanish class. Lillián, la madre de mi ‘host’ familia, went with me in a taxi to show me how to get there. And she pointed out key buildings and plazas so as to get a quick look at part of the city, too. …
Flew out of Lindbergh Field and some 26 hours of travel later, I’m in Montevideo, putting my feet up at casa de mi “host” famlia for the next 4 weeks. Getting here was half the fun. Three of the smoothest flights I’ve ever had plus 2 even smoother touchdowns. Mechanical issues had delayed the flight …
Whispers From the Other Side of the World Under slightly more than half a moon, the curve of a bay and a silhouette of rooflines emerge though blue-black-blue darkness. Silence is thick. Only a few stars remain visible with moonset still an hour away. The cool of night’s transition into morning feels heavy on my …
